XR250L Project
September ‘94
Page 5
Battery
I wanted to remove the battery because it was heavy and would make me fall
down a lot. As it turned out, the entire battery box and battery weighed only
4.5 pounds, but I removed them anyway. I replaced the battery with a
capacitor from Radio Shack. The lights and horn still work perfectly. The
lights don’t dim when the bike is idling or when you blow the horn. I’m happy.
Thanks to Mark Lawrence of Nevada City, CA, for the capacitor information.
Disconnect the wires from the battery and straighten the battery connectors.
Dismount the fuse block and remove the wiring and fuse block from the battery
case. You may want to wrap tape around the fuses and the fuse block or make
a small case to hold the entire fuse block.
Remove the battery case from the frame.
Unwrap a few inches of tape from the wiring harness and remove the rubber
battery box seal.
Position the red and green wires that were connected to the battery along the
capacitor body, running in opposite directions. The red wire goes to the
positive end of the capacitor (indented ridge); the green wire goes to the
negative end. Tape both wires to the capacitor to prevent strain from breaking
the leads after they are soldered. Install heat-shrink tubing on all exposed
wire. Run the ends of the capacitor leads through the straightened battery
connectors and bend them around the connectors before soldering. Solder the
leads and heat all the heat-shrink tubing.
Cover the fuse block and capacitor assembly with a piece of bicycle inner tube.
While you’re in the vicinity, remove the kickstand switch and guard, and
disconnect and remove the kickstand switch wiring harness. Carefully push
the three pins out of the plastic connector that is part of the main wiring
harness. Install heat-shrink tubing on the yellow/black lead. Solder the green
and green/white leads together, cover with insulating tape, and wrap all three
leads with the main wiring harness.
Remove the wiring harness from the frame all the way forward to the junction
in front of the air box and re-route the harness forward under the gas tank. Be
careful not to cut any wires or bend the harness too sharply. Zip-tie the fuse
block and capacitor assembly to the frame.
After I installed the capacitor, I noticed that my XR-L would no longer start on
the first kick. When I checked the spark plug, I found that I only got a spark
about every 4 or 5 kicks. Here is what I think happens. When you kick the
bike over, the alternator sends electricity to the capacitor, the ignition circuit,
and to the electrical accessories like the headlight and taillight. I think the
capacitor and the electrical accessories are using all the electricity and not
leaving any for the ignition circuit. Once the capacitor charges up, there is
enough electricity for the ignition circuit, and the bike starts. It takes about 4
or 5 quick kicks to charge the capacitor. (Note that if you kick the bike over too
slowly, like once a minute, there will never be enough electricity for the ignition
circuit to start the bike. The capacitor will charge, then discharge before the
next kick.)
(3 strony)
(2 strony)
(11 strony)
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